Shirtwaist, 1902-1910

Shirt
1902-1910
White/Cream
Linen; Cotton (embroidery)
41 in. (bust), 32 in. (waist)
2020.01

A shirtwaist with heavy inset, embroidered applique, and applied trim cutwork on the front-center panel. Lace faggoting lines the side-front seams. There is a pleat on the side front seam that goes up into the shoulder. Pin tucks on the back for shaping. The garment has a center back closure with a covered placket and mother of pearl buttons, as well as three hook-and-eye closures on the lace stand collar. It gathers into a waist tape creating a pigeon front silhouette. Two-piece sleeves that come to a point at the wrist and are joined with more lace faggoting. The garment’s right sleeve has extra lace that was added on top of the original lace to give extra support. According to examples found in The Delineator, upper sleeves with intersecting lace decoration (example 1) and pointed cuffs (example 2) all became popular between 1902 and 1903. Chevroned decorations on the front panel were also fashionable during the same time (example 3). Based on the style, it is less likely that this shirtwaist was made after 1906, when pigeon fronts began to fall out of fashion.

-Coberly

Warp fibers at 10x

The horizontal bands in the fiber identify it as flax.

Embroidery fibers at 40x

The sharp twists in the fiber identify it as cotton.